Design Inspirations

From the Past

Part 4 of a 5 part series

 

Art Deco, 1920s and 30s

Emerging after World War 1, the Art Deco period replaced the soft tones of the Art Nouveau era with bold geometric and cubism designs coupled with dramatic contrasts of color.  The discovery of King Tut’s tomb in the 1920’s created an international fervor known as “Egyptomania.”  Jewelry designs with ancient Egyptian motifs such as falcons, scarabs and griffins appeared on jewelry.  The gemstones found in the jewelry of King Tut’s tomb such as lapis lazuli, onyx, and carnelian was frequently used in Art Deco jewelry. 

Popular during the Art Deco period were plaque and link bracelets created with bold geometric and linear designs.  Bracelets were made in the all-white look using platinum or white gold and diamonds. Other jewelry was made using contrasts of brightly colored gemstones, such as rubies, sapphires and emeralds creating a tutti-frutti look.  Van Cleef and Arpels introduced the invisible setting for gemstones in the 1930’s.

Technical advances in diamond cutting allowed diamonds to be cut into modern, three dimensional geometric designs such as triangles, hexagons and octagons.  The round brilliant cut diamond was introduced into the market, eventually replacing the Old European, rose and single cut diamonds.



Beautiful Tutti-fruitti Bracelet

Design Inspirations

From the Past

Part 3 of a 5 part series

 

 

Edwardian, 1900-1915

King Edward VII reigned over England for only nine years from 1901-1910, yet the style of jewelry known as “Edwardian” was popular until World War I broke out.  Edwardian jewelry was understated and feminine in style.  It was luxuriously flaunted among the affluent to purposely display wealth. The hallmark of this era was the use of platinum in intricate designs.  The strength of platinum allowed master jewelers to create delicate designs that had lace like appearance.

New techniques in cutting allowed for diamonds and gemstones to be cut and set to look delicate in contrast to earlier diamonds of the Georgian and Victorian periods.  New cuts such as the marquise, emerald, baguette and briolette were often used in earrings and lavaliere necklaces.  Edwardian jewelry was created to complement the white silk and lace being worn by affluent and stylish women.  In addition to diamonds and natural pearls, stones such as amethysts, peridots (a favorite of King Edward), blue sapphires, aquamarines, alexandrites, and rubies were often used.

King Edward was passionate about horse racing, and horseshoes became a popular motif in Edwardian jewelry.  Other popular and highly feminine motifs were stars, hearts, bows, garlands and flowers.  Filigree details were added to the feminine nature of designs.

Beautiful Example of Edwardian Style

                                                

 

 

 

 

 



Design Inspirations

From the Past

Part 2 of a 5 part series.

Art Nouveau, 1890-1914

Art Nouveau (the "new art") was a widely influential but relatively short-lived movement that emerged in the final decade of the 19th century.  It was a radical departure from historic revival styles.   The style of Art Nouveau jewelry takes from a number of different influences.  Europeans were fascinated with designs from nature.  Impressionism was a major theme of the era.  Artists conveyed nature in a sensual and emotionally charged way, as opposed to merely a literal interpretation of a flower.  Soft, dreamy colors with flowing lines and cherub like images were the order of the day.  Flowers, animals, butterflies and insects were common, along with fantasy figures, such as fairies and mermaids. Themes of women being transformed into exotic creatures prevailed.  Expert hand craftsmanship and individual design was emphasized in opposition to the standardization of goods during the Industrial Revolution.  René Lalique’s jewelry designs are a prime example of this “new art".

  

Beautiful examples of Art Nouveau Jewelry