Tennis star Rafa Nadal took to the court Tuesday for the start of the French Open.  He was seen wearing his new good luck charm around his wrist: an $775,000 watch made from a space-age quartz material and built to withstand 5,000 Gs of g-force.

http://finance.yahoo.com/news/rafa-nadals-850-000-watch-182107573.html

The secret lab where a $2.6 million watch was made

 

 

 

 

Patek Philippe likes to keep things quiet. The family-run, 175-year-old watchmaker creates some of the most sought-after, expensive, and most collected watches in the world, but they rarely do muchpublicity. And they never allow cameras into their highly secure watchmaking lab in Geneva.

Until now.

 

In a rare look inside the hyper-exclusive world of Swiss watchmaking, Patek Philippe allowed "Secret Lives of the Super Rich" to video the making of Patek's most expensive watch ever—the $2.6 million Grandmaster Chime.

The watch, made to honor the company's 175th anniversary, is the most complex that Patek has ever built. It's got 20 complications—including a grande and petite sonnerie, a minute repeater, an instantaneous perpetual calendar with a four-digit year display and a second time zone. It's also got two patented global debuts in the domain of chiming watches: an acoustic alarm that strikes the alarm time and a date repeater that sounds the date on demand.

The coolest feature: It's the company's first double-face wristwatch, so the face flips from the time and sonnerie to the other face, which displays the perpetual calendar.
Each of the tiny pieces are handmade and measured in micrometers. All told, there are 1,300 parts, and it took seven years and more than 100,00 hours just to develop the movement inside the watch. And it is painstaking work to create a watch like this. Everyone working in the lab wears lab coats, booties and face masks to prevent even a single spec of dust from entering the watches.
But even if you have the $2.6 million to spend, don't count on getting one. Patek is only making seven pieces, and it requires prospective buyers to apply first—and then they only choose the most discerning buyers.

http://www.cnbc.com/id/102516353




Online Jewellery Appraising – For better or worse?

 

The blind leading the blind?

There are more and more adverts for on-line jewellery appraising popping up in most countries and an every increasing amount of businesses offering this service. These websites are being found  by consumers who surf the web searching for a Jewellery Appraiser.  Are these places a good option for the consumer? I do not believe that they are.  Whilst I can appreciate that the perceived convenience and low cost can be attractive, it is important that the public understand the risks that they are running in using an appraisal service that has not actually examined the item being appraised.

The online jewellery appraisals are performed by having the jewellery owner upload photographs of their items and then complete a form outlining the details of the item they are wanting appraised. You are not required to have your jewellery leave your possession. In other words, these websites rely on the consumer to provide all the details of the item that are then plugged into a computer program which then calculates a value to put into a document for the consumer.  The consumer signs a disclaimer taking the responsibility for accuracy off the company and putting it back on the consumer. Is this appraising? The Merriam-Webster definition of appraisal is: “the act of judging the value, condition, or importance of something.” That can be done from an image if nothing else is left. Appraisers and adjusters do it from time to time in appraisals based on hypothetical facts. An accepted example of this would be after loss or theft where no appraisal or documents were available before the loss.  There are no laws in most countries, concerning jewellery appraising, but there are generally accepted standards and procedures that qualified professional appraisers adhere to worldwide and the procedures used by the on-line services are not consistent with these practices.
Are these so-called jewellery appraisals giving consumers the protection they deserve? Do they also protect insurance companies from possible fraud? No, is the answer to both these questions. Let us look at the creditable approach to having jewellery appraised. It has been discussed before but these are the factors that need to be considered before engaging a Jewellery Appraiser:

• Are the people doing my jewellery appraisal qualified gemmologists, trained in identifying gemstones (natural or synthetic, treated or not treated, composites)?
• Are they trained in identifying metals used in jewellery?
• Are they trained in grading the stones for size, clarity, colour and cut?
• Have they been educated in valuation science?
• Are they creditable and ethical?
• Are they transparent in telling you about their background and experience?

Can a photograph provide the detailed information necessary to accurately perform an appraisal? Virtually never! This practice is only recommended when an item can no longer be made available for a physical inspection such as after a theft. Being able to identify and grade stones and metals and correctly identify the method of construction is an essential aspect of the appraisal process and can only be done if the person is looking at the item and has the knowledge to know what they are seeing. A photograph cannot do this.  You may say  ”but I know I have a ½ carat diamond in white gold engagement ring”. Do you know positively that it is white gold and of what grade? or could it be platinum? There may be a stamped mark inside the ring which tells you what the item is claimed to be,  but these are not always accurate.  A qualified appraiser will test the metal in their hands,  but an online appraiser  relies on what they are told and this could be far from the truth.

A typical photograph that a consumer
might take of their jewellery
before sending to an online
appraisal service.

What is the quality of the diamond? A ½ carat round brilliant cut of E colour, Ideal cut and VVS1 clarity is going to be valued quite different from a ½ carat round brilliant cut diamond of G colour, very good cut and VS2 clarity. You also could not tell if the stone fluoresces or where the inclusions might be located from looking at a photo. Can you tell from this picture what the colour is? The cut? The size (carat weight)? Do you know from this picture if this is in fact a diamond? Or is it a moissanite? Or maybe a cubic zirconia? Or a zircon? Or a white sapphire?

Do you understand my concern now and why I insist that this is not a job that can be done accurately on-line? A major concern is how these appraisals leave the consumer unprotected if they use the appraisal for any reason. What do I mean by use? There are reasons to have appraisals carried out on your jewellery and at some point, somewhere, somehow a consumer is going to use the appraisal for perhaps one of the following reasons: insurance, probate, divorce settlement, selling, buying, to name just a few. They believe that they can use the appraisal for whatever they wish as the item is worth $$$. After all they have a jewellery appraisal document to prove it.

Scenario 1: The gemstone was appraised as a diamond (from client’s notes to the online appraiser) and sold on Kijjii or somewhere similar but when taken to a credited appraiser it is a CZ or maybe it’s a moissanite.

Scenario 2: It was appraised as a natural ruby but after sale discovered it was a glass filled composite ruby.

Not all jewellery appraisals
are created equal.

All of these can put the consumer at risk.   All appraisals are done for different reasons and when a good appraiser discerns the appropriate reason for the appraisal then the valuation can be done correctly. This reason is then stated on the appraisal. Granted, most of these on-line appraisals are not done for insurance purpose, but do they specify that to the consumer. Does the consumer know this is not the value they are being given? Most Insurance companies will insist that the appraisal for your jewellery is done by someone who has proper credentials and has had the jewellery in their hands for examination.

The other concern and reason for bringing this before the consumer is the damage that these online appraisals due to the jewellery appraisal profession as a whole. They allow the confusion surrounding jewellery appraisals to continue. As a fellow appraiser in the UK Adrian Smith FGA notes, “There is a popular misconception that appraisals are carried out ‘like on the Antiques Road Show’. The hours of examining the items, researching the facts and compiling the information for broadcasting are not shown, as it would make for poor entertainment. The viewer merely sees the result of the work, not the work itself”.

The Association of Independent Jewellery Valuers was formed to establish a group of ethical independent Jewellery Appraisers/Valuers worldwide. Like me, my colleagues in the AIJV are very concerned about the damage these companies may do, not only to our consumers whom we strive to help, but also to the jewellery industry as a whole. Unfortunately, all of these online appraisals encourage the misconception that a jewellery appraisal is little more than a guess that requires virtually no time to complete. In fact the professional AIJV appraiser has invested in the education necessary to establish the qualifications and expertise needed to accurately prepare your appraisal, a document that we can be proud of and one that will serve our clients well. An accurate valuation is not something that can be accomplished from a digital image.

The most unfortunate part of this on-line valuation business model is that ultimately the consumer will lose and end up having to pay the price. Protect yourself from this type of appraising. Make sure you find an appraiser who has both credentials and ethics and truly cares about you and your jewellery.

By
Karen Howard, FCGmA, RMV, CAP(CJA)
KC Appraisals, Canada
Member of the Association of Independent Jewellery Valuers

Acknowledgements – Thanks to Adrian Smith FIRV, FGA and Stuart M. Robertson GG for their help and input into this article.  Thanks also to my fellow AIJV  appraisers/valuers who care about their clients and this industry enough to want to continue to try to improve it.

Disclaimer – The AIJV blog is authored by a selection of AIJV members and guests specifically to be able present many different viewpoints on a large variety of subjects. The opinions expressed by the authors are not necessarily those of the AIJV.

http://www.independent-jewellery-valuers.org/blog/2015/05/on-line-jewellery-appraising-for-better-or-worse/

Emerald,

Modern Emerald
and
Diamond Earrings

the birthstone for May, is the green variety of beryl.  Symbolizing intelligence, loyalty and balance this gemstone has been adorned by the elite, royalty and celebrities of today.  Emeralds are also the stone of Venus, goddess of love and represents love in all its forms.  Wearing an emerald is believed to reveal the truth or falseness of a lover’s oath as well as make one an eloquent speaker. 

Ancient Egypt had the first known emerald mines, dating back to 330 BC and continuing into the 1700s. Cleopatra had an affinity towards emeralds and were used in her royal jewelry and adornments. Historically, emeralds were also mined in India and Austria.  However, the oldest emeralds are aged 2.97 billion years old and are from South Africa.  Today emeralds are found in Colombia, Zambia, Afghanistan, Brazil, Pakistan, Russia and Zimbabwe.

High-end watchmakers are reportedly looking outside of the box when designing new gem-set timepieces, and that invariably involves considering colored gemstones as the alternative to diamonds. One of them is Jacob & Co., a privately owned jewelry and watch manufacturer from New York, whose latest creation focuses exclusively on emeralds.

With a watch case and dial set with 424 emeralds, with a total weight of 32.39 carats, the Caviar Emerald Tourbillon watch by Jacob & Co. took almost two years to create. The pave setting is particularly intricate, with emeralds covering almost the entire surface area the watch.

Created from 18K white gold, the Caviar Emerald Tourbillon is 47 millimeters wide. The watch case features 232 emeralds with another 17 stones used for the crown. The emeralds are seamlessly integrated into the watch dial, which includes 140 baguette-cut stones.

The color of the watch is matched by a green alligator strap, with an 18K white gold buckle. The strap, too, features 36 emeralds.

If you are interested in acquiring the Caviar Emerald Tourbillon, it will put you back about $2.4 million.

by Gemewizard

Bacall’s baubles

 

Topping the jewelry lots was this 18-karat yellow gold, diamond, amethyst and turquoise ring by Schlumberger that went for more than four times its pre-sale estimates, garnering $52,500.

CT60 and East West

 

The 40 mm Tiffany CT60 Calendar watch is 18-karat rose gold with a self-winding mechanical movement, white soleil dial and black alligator strap. The limited edition timepiece retails for $19,000.

Aquamarine:  The Birthstone for March

Aquamarine, named for the Latin phrase “water of the sea” is said to calm waves and keep sailors safe while at sea.  It is also thought to enhance the happiness of marriages.  Aquamarine is the greenish blue to blue variety of the mineral beryl.  The mineral beryl also has other gem varieties which include Emerald (green), Morganite (pink) and Heliodor (yellow).

Light blue Topaz can easily be mistaken for Aquamarine.  The colors of these two gemstones can be identical, and their physical properties are very similar.  Aquamarine is a popular gemstone for rings, earrings, necklaces and other jewelry items as it fits the pricing needs for many consumers.    

 

Faberge’s new Pearl Egg, its first Imperial Egg in nearly 100 years, features 139 white pearls and 3,305 diamonds as well as other precious gemstones.

Its design is inspired by the creation of a pearl within an oyster--the mother-of-pearl outside opens to show a unique 12.17-carat gray pearl from the Arabian Gulf. An innovative clasp allows the exterior to rotate on its base, allowing all six sections of the egg to open simultaneously and unveil the pearl within.

The egg currently is on display at the Doha Watch and Jewellery Exhibition, which runs through Feb. 28.

George Washington, the first President of the United States had many pocket watches.  One of his pocket watches was a quarter repeater (chimes every 15 minutes), presumably from 1775.  It is believed to be of Swiss origin as the case has a Neuchâtel hallmark. On the inside movement cover is the engraving: "1775 / G. Washington" in script.  The outside of the watch is engraved "Trenton N.J. / Dec. 10th 1777. / Presented to my Friend / Col. Thos. Johnson of Md. / as a Memento / of my great Esteem. / Geo. Washington."  This watch is in the collection of the New York Historical Society. 
 
  
 

Photos from NAWCC

          

Amethyst is the birthstone for February and is the purple variety of the mineral Quartz.  Amethyst derives its name from the Greek "amethystos", which means "not drunken".   Amethyst was believed to protect and heal.  

OK, now for the technical gemological information:  Amethyst is silicon dioxide SiO2, Crystal System is Trigonal, Uniaxial Positive, Refractive Index is 1.53to 1.56, DR, 0.009, Specific Gravity is 2.60 to 2.65.

Amethyst can occur in huge flawless crystals and gemstones of all sizes have been faceted. The color of Amethyst is most often caused by iron impurities, though it can also be colored by natural radiation exposure.  Amethyst is sometimes heat treated to deepen the color, or to transform it into Citrine. 

Amethyst is a beautiful stone but not very hard, reaching a 7 on the Mohs Scale (same as a hard steel file).  As a result, amethyst can abrade (scratch) fairly easily.  Avoid leaving amethyst in strong light as the color may fade.

                         

A Louisiana man with good timing and a lot of luck found a 2.01 ct. yellow diamond this week at Arkansas’ famed Crater of Diamonds State Park.

Very Cool!  Miniature Motorcycles.

Artist Dan Tanenbaum makes miniature motorcycles made exclusively from vintage watch parts. Dan from Toronto Ontario, Canada has been sculpting these miniature motorcycles since 2010.  https://www.facebook.com/watchpartsmotorcycles

I wish everyone a Blessed Holiday Season

and a Happy New Year. 

 Here's to 2015, may it be a wonderful year for all.

 

 

The Diamonds in Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs.

Watch owned by the 'King’ up for sale at Antiquorum.

This Omega Black Dial Constellation Calendar was previously owned by Elvis Presley and later was gifted to his friend and musician Charlie Hodge. The sale will be held on Dec. 11.

 

 

Did you know that Garnets come in a variety of colors?

 

Most people are familiar with the traditional red shades of garnets, known as Almandine or Pyrope.

These shades are the most common and readily available.  It’s the exceptional greens of Tsavorite and Demantoid as well as the orange of Spessartine and the raspberry shades of Rhodolite that are really catching the eyes of the public.

There is a wide number of garnet species and no garnet is ever pure in nature, meaning that often the species mix to create varieties with a wider range of colors and characteristics.  One benefit garnets have over other gemstones is that many of them, with a few exceptions, are untreated.  They are found in nature with their exceptional colors and clarities.

Today, most garnets on the market are sourced from African countries, but some come from India, Russia and Central and South America.

Beautiful Greens
Demantoid Garnets are the most expensive kind of garnet currently on the market.  Demantoid garnets usually are small, rarely exceeding 1 carat.  They are special because they are one of only a few gemstones where an inclusion increases the value of the stone. The appearance of a horsetail inclusion makes the stone one of the rarest in the world and can greatly increase the price a collector is willing to pay. 

Another popular green shade of garnet is known as Tsavorite.  Tsavorite Garnets are a great alternative to Emeralds. They’re easier to work with, and despite being rarer than Emeralds, they are generally less expensive.

Warm Colored Garnets
Mandarin Garnet, also called Spessartine, is getting harder to find and more expensive than a few years ago.   Yet, even with it being harder to find this stone continues to be a mainstay for the jewelry consumer.

Rhodolite Garnets with their raspberry hues is very popularity, benefiting from their similarity to Rubellite Tourmaline while offering an exceptional color and clarity at a lower price point.

 

 

 

 

Can you tell which Rolex Daytona is real? 

 

http://youtu.be/RzQcj1ulIkQ

 

Link to view the Henry Graves Jr. Super complication by Patek Philippe.


http://www.sothebys.com/en/news-video/videos/2014/09/henry-graves-watch-ge1404.html

Superstar! The Holy Grail of Watches Scores New World Interscope Records.

The Henry Graves Jr. Super complication, dubbed the “world’s most famous watch,” scored $24 million at Sotheby’s Nov. 11 Important Watch auction in Geneva, reaffirming its status as the world’s most valuable timepiece.

The Super complication has been called the holy grail of watches, in part because of its fabled and quite complicated history. It was created as the result of a 1925 “contest” between two watch collectors, New York City banking magnate Henry Graves Jr. and automaker James Ward Packard, to see who could create the most complicated watch.

Eight years later, at the height of the Depression, Patek Philippe delivered to Graves the final product, which claimed the title of the most complicated watch in the world for 56 years, when another Patek Philippe watch, fashioned in part by a computer, finally topped it with 33 complications. (The Super complication is still considered the most complicated watch ever built by hand.)

The 14k gold watch comprises 900 individual parts and boasts 24 complications (features other than time), including a perpetual calendar that extends to the year 2100, indications for the time of sunset and sunrise, a stopwatch for hours and minutes, an alarm, a map of the sky over Graves’ New York City apartment, and chimes that sound like Big Ben.