High-end watchmakers are reportedly looking outside of the box when designing new gem-set timepieces, and that invariably involves considering colored gemstones as the alternative to diamonds. One of them is Jacob & Co., a privately owned jewelry and watch manufacturer from New York, whose latest creation focuses exclusively on emeralds.

With a watch case and dial set with 424 emeralds, with a total weight of 32.39 carats, the Caviar Emerald Tourbillon watch by Jacob & Co. took almost two years to create. The pave setting is particularly intricate, with emeralds covering almost the entire surface area the watch.

Created from 18K white gold, the Caviar Emerald Tourbillon is 47 millimeters wide. The watch case features 232 emeralds with another 17 stones used for the crown. The emeralds are seamlessly integrated into the watch dial, which includes 140 baguette-cut stones.

The color of the watch is matched by a green alligator strap, with an 18K white gold buckle. The strap, too, features 36 emeralds.

If you are interested in acquiring the Caviar Emerald Tourbillon, it will put you back about $2.4 million.

by Gemewizard

Bacall’s baubles

 

Topping the jewelry lots was this 18-karat yellow gold, diamond, amethyst and turquoise ring by Schlumberger that went for more than four times its pre-sale estimates, garnering $52,500.

CT60 and East West

 

The 40 mm Tiffany CT60 Calendar watch is 18-karat rose gold with a self-winding mechanical movement, white soleil dial and black alligator strap. The limited edition timepiece retails for $19,000.

Aquamarine:  The Birthstone for March

Aquamarine, named for the Latin phrase “water of the sea” is said to calm waves and keep sailors safe while at sea.  It is also thought to enhance the happiness of marriages.  Aquamarine is the greenish blue to blue variety of the mineral beryl.  The mineral beryl also has other gem varieties which include Emerald (green), Morganite (pink) and Heliodor (yellow).

Light blue Topaz can easily be mistaken for Aquamarine.  The colors of these two gemstones can be identical, and their physical properties are very similar.  Aquamarine is a popular gemstone for rings, earrings, necklaces and other jewelry items as it fits the pricing needs for many consumers.    

 

Faberge’s new Pearl Egg, its first Imperial Egg in nearly 100 years, features 139 white pearls and 3,305 diamonds as well as other precious gemstones.

Its design is inspired by the creation of a pearl within an oyster--the mother-of-pearl outside opens to show a unique 12.17-carat gray pearl from the Arabian Gulf. An innovative clasp allows the exterior to rotate on its base, allowing all six sections of the egg to open simultaneously and unveil the pearl within.

The egg currently is on display at the Doha Watch and Jewellery Exhibition, which runs through Feb. 28.

George Washington, the first President of the United States had many pocket watches.  One of his pocket watches was a quarter repeater (chimes every 15 minutes), presumably from 1775.  It is believed to be of Swiss origin as the case has a Neuchâtel hallmark. On the inside movement cover is the engraving: "1775 / G. Washington" in script.  The outside of the watch is engraved "Trenton N.J. / Dec. 10th 1777. / Presented to my Friend / Col. Thos. Johnson of Md. / as a Memento / of my great Esteem. / Geo. Washington."  This watch is in the collection of the New York Historical Society. 
 
  
 

Photos from NAWCC

          

Amethyst is the birthstone for February and is the purple variety of the mineral Quartz.  Amethyst derives its name from the Greek "amethystos", which means "not drunken".   Amethyst was believed to protect and heal.  

OK, now for the technical gemological information:  Amethyst is silicon dioxide SiO2, Crystal System is Trigonal, Uniaxial Positive, Refractive Index is 1.53to 1.56, DR, 0.009, Specific Gravity is 2.60 to 2.65.

Amethyst can occur in huge flawless crystals and gemstones of all sizes have been faceted. The color of Amethyst is most often caused by iron impurities, though it can also be colored by natural radiation exposure.  Amethyst is sometimes heat treated to deepen the color, or to transform it into Citrine. 

Amethyst is a beautiful stone but not very hard, reaching a 7 on the Mohs Scale (same as a hard steel file).  As a result, amethyst can abrade (scratch) fairly easily.  Avoid leaving amethyst in strong light as the color may fade.

                         

A Louisiana man with good timing and a lot of luck found a 2.01 ct. yellow diamond this week at Arkansas’ famed Crater of Diamonds State Park.

Very Cool!  Miniature Motorcycles.

Artist Dan Tanenbaum makes miniature motorcycles made exclusively from vintage watch parts. Dan from Toronto Ontario, Canada has been sculpting these miniature motorcycles since 2010.  https://www.facebook.com/watchpartsmotorcycles

I wish everyone a Blessed Holiday Season

and a Happy New Year. 

 Here's to 2015, may it be a wonderful year for all.

 

 

The Diamonds in Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs.

Watch owned by the 'King’ up for sale at Antiquorum.

This Omega Black Dial Constellation Calendar was previously owned by Elvis Presley and later was gifted to his friend and musician Charlie Hodge. The sale will be held on Dec. 11.

 

 

Did you know that Garnets come in a variety of colors?

 

Most people are familiar with the traditional red shades of garnets, known as Almandine or Pyrope.

These shades are the most common and readily available.  It’s the exceptional greens of Tsavorite and Demantoid as well as the orange of Spessartine and the raspberry shades of Rhodolite that are really catching the eyes of the public.

There is a wide number of garnet species and no garnet is ever pure in nature, meaning that often the species mix to create varieties with a wider range of colors and characteristics.  One benefit garnets have over other gemstones is that many of them, with a few exceptions, are untreated.  They are found in nature with their exceptional colors and clarities.

Today, most garnets on the market are sourced from African countries, but some come from India, Russia and Central and South America.

Beautiful Greens
Demantoid Garnets are the most expensive kind of garnet currently on the market.  Demantoid garnets usually are small, rarely exceeding 1 carat.  They are special because they are one of only a few gemstones where an inclusion increases the value of the stone. The appearance of a horsetail inclusion makes the stone one of the rarest in the world and can greatly increase the price a collector is willing to pay. 

Another popular green shade of garnet is known as Tsavorite.  Tsavorite Garnets are a great alternative to Emeralds. They’re easier to work with, and despite being rarer than Emeralds, they are generally less expensive.

Warm Colored Garnets
Mandarin Garnet, also called Spessartine, is getting harder to find and more expensive than a few years ago.   Yet, even with it being harder to find this stone continues to be a mainstay for the jewelry consumer.

Rhodolite Garnets with their raspberry hues is very popularity, benefiting from their similarity to Rubellite Tourmaline while offering an exceptional color and clarity at a lower price point.

 

 

 

 

Can you tell which Rolex Daytona is real? 

 

http://youtu.be/RzQcj1ulIkQ

 

Link to view the Henry Graves Jr. Super complication by Patek Philippe.


http://www.sothebys.com/en/news-video/videos/2014/09/henry-graves-watch-ge1404.html

Superstar! The Holy Grail of Watches Scores New World Interscope Records.

The Henry Graves Jr. Super complication, dubbed the “world’s most famous watch,” scored $24 million at Sotheby’s Nov. 11 Important Watch auction in Geneva, reaffirming its status as the world’s most valuable timepiece.

The Super complication has been called the holy grail of watches, in part because of its fabled and quite complicated history. It was created as the result of a 1925 “contest” between two watch collectors, New York City banking magnate Henry Graves Jr. and automaker James Ward Packard, to see who could create the most complicated watch.

Eight years later, at the height of the Depression, Patek Philippe delivered to Graves the final product, which claimed the title of the most complicated watch in the world for 56 years, when another Patek Philippe watch, fashioned in part by a computer, finally topped it with 33 complications. (The Super complication is still considered the most complicated watch ever built by hand.)

The 14k gold watch comprises 900 individual parts and boasts 24 complications (features other than time), including a perpetual calendar that extends to the year 2100, indications for the time of sunset and sunrise, a stopwatch for hours and minutes, an alarm, a map of the sky over Graves’ New York City apartment, and chimes that sound like Big Ben.

Design Inspirations

From the Past

Part 5 of a 5 part series

 

 

Retro Period circa 1940-1950s      

The Retro Period is also known as Retro Modern.  During this time the American jewelry market came into its own.  Hollywood and all its glamour became the leading influence.  The streamlined geometric and linear looks of the Art Deco Period evolved to become larger and more thee dimensional with curves and asymmetric motifs.  Bold, sculpted curves were often featured with sparingly set small diamonds and rubies (often synthetic) or less expensive larger gems such as citrine, amethyst and garnet.

During the war years, platinum was conscripted for the war effort.  Jewelry designers focused on using large expanses of highly polished gold.  Bicolor and tricolor gold became the norm including rose (pink), yellow and white.

The prevalent themes of Retro Jewelry were feminine, patriotic, or industrial motifs.  Feminine styles included flowers, birds, ribbons, bows, scrolls and fabric like folds. Patriotic and industrial styles included tank tread bracelets, with large repetitive links evolving tank tracks and war industry production lines as well as red, white and blue stones used stylized flags and military type insignias.

                               

                  

 

Design Inspirations

From the Past

Part 4 of a 5 part series

 

Art Deco, 1920s and 30s

Emerging after World War 1, the Art Deco period replaced the soft tones of the Art Nouveau era with bold geometric and cubism designs coupled with dramatic contrasts of color.  The discovery of King Tut’s tomb in the 1920’s created an international fervor known as “Egyptomania.”  Jewelry designs with ancient Egyptian motifs such as falcons, scarabs and griffins appeared on jewelry.  The gemstones found in the jewelry of King Tut’s tomb such as lapis lazuli, onyx, and carnelian was frequently used in Art Deco jewelry. 

Popular during the Art Deco period were plaque and link bracelets created with bold geometric and linear designs.  Bracelets were made in the all-white look using platinum or white gold and diamonds. Other jewelry was made using contrasts of brightly colored gemstones, such as rubies, sapphires and emeralds creating a tutti-frutti look.  Van Cleef and Arpels introduced the invisible setting for gemstones in the 1930’s.

Technical advances in diamond cutting allowed diamonds to be cut into modern, three dimensional geometric designs such as triangles, hexagons and octagons.  The round brilliant cut diamond was introduced into the market, eventually replacing the Old European, rose and single cut diamonds.



Beautiful Tutti-fruitti Bracelet

Design Inspirations

From the Past

Part 3 of a 5 part series

 

 

Edwardian, 1900-1915

King Edward VII reigned over England for only nine years from 1901-1910, yet the style of jewelry known as “Edwardian” was popular until World War I broke out.  Edwardian jewelry was understated and feminine in style.  It was luxuriously flaunted among the affluent to purposely display wealth. The hallmark of this era was the use of platinum in intricate designs.  The strength of platinum allowed master jewelers to create delicate designs that had lace like appearance.

New techniques in cutting allowed for diamonds and gemstones to be cut and set to look delicate in contrast to earlier diamonds of the Georgian and Victorian periods.  New cuts such as the marquise, emerald, baguette and briolette were often used in earrings and lavaliere necklaces.  Edwardian jewelry was created to complement the white silk and lace being worn by affluent and stylish women.  In addition to diamonds and natural pearls, stones such as amethysts, peridots (a favorite of King Edward), blue sapphires, aquamarines, alexandrites, and rubies were often used.

King Edward was passionate about horse racing, and horseshoes became a popular motif in Edwardian jewelry.  Other popular and highly feminine motifs were stars, hearts, bows, garlands and flowers.  Filigree details were added to the feminine nature of designs.

Beautiful Example of Edwardian Style

                                                

 

 

 

 

 



Design Inspirations

From the Past

Part 2 of a 5 part series.

Art Nouveau, 1890-1914

Art Nouveau (the "new art") was a widely influential but relatively short-lived movement that emerged in the final decade of the 19th century.  It was a radical departure from historic revival styles.   The style of Art Nouveau jewelry takes from a number of different influences.  Europeans were fascinated with designs from nature.  Impressionism was a major theme of the era.  Artists conveyed nature in a sensual and emotionally charged way, as opposed to merely a literal interpretation of a flower.  Soft, dreamy colors with flowing lines and cherub like images were the order of the day.  Flowers, animals, butterflies and insects were common, along with fantasy figures, such as fairies and mermaids. Themes of women being transformed into exotic creatures prevailed.  Expert hand craftsmanship and individual design was emphasized in opposition to the standardization of goods during the Industrial Revolution.  René Lalique’s jewelry designs are a prime example of this “new art".

  

Beautiful examples of Art Nouveau Jewelry